Let’s get real for a second—most people think a benchtop drill press is only for metal or wood. But if you’ve ever tried to drill clean, consistent holes in thick leather for leatherworking projects: custom bags, holsters, journal covers, or even leather keychains, you know a hand drill leaves ragged edges, uneven depths, and takes forever to line up straight. As someone who’s spent the last 8 years selling benchtop drill presses (yes, I’m the guy behind the counter at the workshop supply shop that sells them) and testing every model for materials like leather, let’s walk through exactly how to use one for leather—plus why our benchtop units are a game-changer for this work. Benchtop Drill Press
First, let’s get this straight: drilling leather isn’t the same as drilling wood. Leather is fibrous, dense, and if you’re working with full-grain or top-grain (the good stuff, not the cheap suede), it’s tough. The biggest mistakes I see new leatherworkers make are using a wrong bit, cranking too fast, or not securing the leather properly—leading to holes that split, tear, or have fuzzy edges that ruin the finished project. A benchtop drill press eliminates most of these issues because it keeps the bit straight (no wobbling), lets you control speed precisely, and applies consistent pressure. It’s not overkill, it’s the tool that makes your leatherwork look professional, not like a DIY project.
Step 1: Prep Your Workspace and Leather (No Mess Allowed)
First, set up your benchtop drill press. These units are built to sit on a sturdy workbench—never use a flimsy table, because vibration will mess up your hole alignment. If you just unboxed your drill press, bolt it down temporarily or use heavy clamps to hold it tight to the bench; we always include a set of clamp mounting hardware with every unit, and trust me, it’s worth using.
Next, gather your leather. For drilling, you’ll want to use leather that’s cut to your exact shape (no extra loose edges flapping around). Lay it flat on a hard, stable base—this is non-negotiable. I recommend a piece of MDF or a thick piece of scrap hardwood (like oak or maple) under your leather. Why? Because when the drill bit pokes through the back of the leather, it doesn’t tear or catch the leather’s underside fibers on the bench surface. Soft surfaces like foam or cardboard will leave indents, so skip those.
Pro tip from someone who’s fielded 1000+ customer questions: if you’re working with thin leather (1-2 oz, like for tiny keychains), you can use a single scrap piece, but for thick leather (5-8 oz, for holsters or belt straps), use two layers of MDF on the bottom for extra support. Also, mark your hole placement with a pencil or a leather punch guide—don’t just eyeball it. A sharp pencil mark or a small indent from a hole punch will keep your drill bit from sliding all over the leather.
Step 2: Choose the Right Drill Bit (This Is Make-or-Break)
Here’s where a lot of people go wrong with drill presses for leather. Metal bits are too sharp and will burn or split leather. Wood bits can be too aggressive and leave ragged edges. The best bits for leather are actually leather-specific drill bits, but if you don’t have those, a fresh, sharp high-speed steel (HSS) twist bit with a wide, flat point works almost as well. The key is that the bit must be sharp—dull bits will force the leather to tear instead of cutting cleanly.
Our benchtop drill presses come with a 1/32” to 1/2” chuck that fits all standard drill bits, and we also sell a pack of 5 leather drill bits as an add-on for new customers. Avoid brad point bits (those are for wood) because they dig too deep and can split leather’s top grain. For large holes (like for a belt buckle slot), use a drill bit designed for plastic or leather—never use a hole saw, that’s for big wood/metal projects and will tear leather.
Another tip: for holes that need to be threaded (like for leather lacing), use a slightly under-sized bit, then punch the thread by hand or with a lace chisel. For regular holes, match the bit size to your needs—1/8” is perfect for lacing, 1/4” for belt strap holes, etc.
Step 3: Adjust the Drill Press for Leather (Speed Is Everything)
This is where benchtop drill presses shine over hand drills—speed control. Leather hates high speed. If you run the bit too fast, it creates friction that burns the leather, turns it black, and ruins the finish. Most of our benchtop units have 5-10 speed settings (ranging from 500 RPM to 2000 RPM) — for leather, you want the slowest speed possible, 500-1000 RPM max. For thin 1-2 oz leather, you can go up to 1200 RPM, but for thick 8 oz leather, stick to 500 RPM.
Next, set the depth stop. You don’t want the bit drilling all the way through the workbench, right? Our drill presses have a built-in depth adjustment rod that locks in place—just lower the bit onto your leather (with the press turned off) and adjust the rod so the bit only goes through the leather and 1/8” into the MDF base. That gives you a clean exit without tearing.
Also, make sure the drill press table is level. Wobbly tables make bits drift, leading to off-center holes. Most units come with a built-in level, so just give it a quick check before you start. We always recommend testing on a scrap piece of the same leather first—this is your dry run. Drill a test hole, check if the edge is clean, no burning, no tearing. If it’s burning, slow down the speed. If it’s tearing, make the bit is sharp, or add a second piece of MDF under the leather for support.
Step 4: Secure the Leather (No Slippage = No Mistakes)
You’d be shocked how many people skip this step and end up with a hole that’s 1/4” off because the leather moved mid-drill. For leather, you don’t want to clamp it so tight that it indents, but you need to hold it firmly in place. Use spring clamps (not heavy metal clamps that can leave marks) to hold the leather to the MDF base, around the perimeter of your hole marks. Leave enough space around the hole so the clamps don’t get in the way of the drill press head.
If you’re working on a larger project (like a leather jacket panel), you can use a leather temporary adhesive spray to hold it flat—just make sure it’s a non-permanent adhesive that wipes off with rubbing alcohol. Never use super glue, that will ruin your drill bit.
Another trick: if you’re drilling multiple identical holes, you can make a simple guide out of scrap wood. Cut a piece of wood with a hole the size of your desired placement, clamp it to the leather, and the drill bit will line up perfectly every time. Our customers love these guides for making custom leather wallets with 8 identical lacing holes—no more measuring each one.
Step 5: Drill the Hole (Slow, Steady, Controlled)
Now we’re at the actual drilling part. Turn on your benchtop drill press, wait a second for it to reach full speed, then lower the head of the press slowly, using the handle (don’t push down hard—let the bit do the work). Apply gentle, even pressure. You’ll feel the bit start to pierce the leather—at that point, keep going until you reach your depth stop. Then, slowly lift the head back up before turning off the press.
Wait, why not push hard? Pushing too hard causes the bit to tear the leather’s fibers, especially on the backside. The drill press is designed to apply consistent pressure, so you just need to guide it, not force it. For thick leather, you might need to pause halfway to let the bit cool off—friction is the enemy here. If you see a little bit of smoke, that’s the speed being too high, not the bit.
When you pull the leather off, check the hole. It should be clean, with slightly rounded edges (no fuzzy fibers, no burnt spots). If there are a few small fibers sticking out, you can sand them lightly with fine-grit sandpaper, but most benchtop drill press cuts are clean enough that you don’t need extra finishing.
Step 6: Clean Up and Maintain Your Drill Press for Next Time
After you’re done drilling, turn off the press, unplug it, and wipe down the table and chuck with a dry cloth. Leather dust is fine and can get into the moving parts, so a quick wipe prevents buildup. Don’t use water, that can rust the metal parts. We recommend lubricating the drill press’s moving rod every 10 hours of use—just a light coat of machine oil, which we include with every unit we sell.
Also, remove your drill bit and clean it with a bit cleaner or a soft brush to get rid of any leather dust. A clean bit will last longer and cut better next time.
Why Our Benchtop Drill Presses Are Perfect for Leatherworking
I’ve tested a lot of benchtop drill presses over the years, and the ones we sell are the only ones that balance speed control, stability, and chuck strength exactly for leather. Our units have a cast iron table (not plastic, which wobbles) and a range of 500-2000 RPM speed settings, so you can dial in exactly the right speed for thin or thick leather. The chuck holds bits tight, so no slipping that ruins holes, and the depth stop is easy to adjust even if you’re wearing leatherworking gloves.
Most of our customers are small leather businesses or hobbyists who used to use hand drills or hand punches. They come back and tell me that drilling holes in leather with our benchtop drill press cut their project time in half, and their finished products look way more professional. No more ragged edges, no more off-center holes, no more burnt leather. It’s the tool that turns a good leather project into a great one.
If you’re tired of fighting with hand tools for your leatherwork, or you’re looking to upgrade your workshop with a tool that works for leather, wood, and even thin metal, our benchtop drill presses are exactly what you need. We offer expert support for every customer—whether you’re a beginner figuring out how to drill your first leather belt hole or a seasoned leatherworker needing a replacement part. We can help you pick the right unit for your workshop size and project needs, and even share extra tips for drilling specific leather types (full-grain, suede, tooling leather).
Benchtop Metal Lathe If you’re ready to upgrade your leatherworking process, get in touch with us to discuss our benchtop drill press options and get personalized recommendations. We’re here to help you get clean, consistent holes for every leather project you take on.
References
- Leather Crafter’s Guide to Drilling & Punching: Best Practices for Fiber Materials, Leather Craftsmen Magazine, 2021
- Benchtop Drill Press Safety and Material-Specific Setup, Workshop Tool Review, Vol. 12, No. 3, 2022
- Full-Grain Leather Work: Drilling Techniques for Professional Results, American Leatherworking Association, 2023
YS Machine Tools Co., Ltd.
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